Tropical minimalism weds wellness at Jetwing Lagoon in Sri Lanka

Sixty years ago in Sri Lanka, a newly minted qualified architect in his mid-40s was finding his style and polishing his brilliance. He had already created some stunning homes and seemed ready to translate his vision of ‘tropical modernism’ into a resort.

In 1965, this legendary Sri Lankan architect, the late Geoffrey Bawa, created what is the Jetwing Lagoon today, his first-ever hospitality property. Called Blue Lagoon at the time and operating as a family resort for decades, it was brought into the fold of the family-owned Jetwing hospitality group in 2010.

But it is only now, after a well-planned pivot towards wellness, that Jetwing Lagoon, just a 30-minute drive from Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport in Negombo, Sri Lanka, truly comes into its own. 

 

Nature first

I’m at their restaurant called Blue Lagoon (a hat-tip to Bawa’s OG hotel), and it is everything that his philosophy embodied. Facing the sweet-salty lagoon at Negombo, its minimalistic main area is free from walls and air-conditioning.

The tables set in the airy areas between the pillars allow you to slow down, breathe in pure air, soak in the sensations, chirp at the friendly squirrels, mynahs, and resident lapwings and appreciate every morsel of the thoughtfully curated meals that are served to you.

It’s quite amazing that this early in his architecture career, he had already mastered the melding of indoors and outdoors, breaking the boundaries by creating collonaded corridors and open-to-sky courtyards so that you were never too far away from nature and freedom. Much like poet Kahlil Gibran wrote about marriage in his The Prophet —‘Let there be spaces in your togetherness and let the winds of the heavens dance between you,’ the spaces where the wind is allowed to dance are what make Bawa’s designs stronger and more special even today.

 

Ayubowan, Ayurveda

It makes perfect sense that Jetwing Lagoon, after a four-month renovation, has repurposed itself into a grown-ups-only wellness resort with all the soul, solitude and intentionality that Bawa was about. A full-fledged Ayurveda centre that’s located in a separate building from the sprawling spa offers consultation with two doctors, several traditional Ayurvedic therapies, and even a menu plan crafted around your specific health needs.

While regulars from the resort’s earlier avatar are welcome to visit just for the calming environment and take treatments on an a la carte basis, the new clientele that Jetwing Lagoon is wooing with a hearty ‘Ayubowan’—a Sinhala greeting that wishes you a long life—is coming for the complete wellbeing packages such as stress management or weight management that can range from three nights to 21 nights! 

The culinary offerings at Jetwing Lagoon are worth writing home about. The breakfast buffet is filled with temptation, especially their perfect string hoppers, milk rice, curries, grills and sambols, apart from the usual Western fare. Lunch and dinner start with hot water, in which you can infuse cinnamon, lemon, cucumber, or ginger, depending on your mood or dosha.

Next, there’s delicious rasam laced with coriander seeds to whet your appetite. If you’re on the Ayurveda plan, don’t miss their wholesome Shatavari Porridge, among many, many other delish dishes. If you’re there to indulge, the Sri Lankan platters are sensational, and several of their European creations are very well made, too. There are some pretty cocktails and zero-alcohol drinks to savour by the sea. Opt for their splendid high tea on the lawn and let the attentive service and kitchen team’s creativity when melding local ingredients with international techniques floor you yet again.

 

Suite dreams

I’m happily ensconced in my Luxury Lagoon Suite, with its ample private terrace, sunken jacuzzi, in-room twin spa beds, and all the amenities that make for a sumptuous stay in the most serene environment; the fact that they have made the decision to make it a TV-free resort speaks volumes.

I can absolutely understand how a month here could help to rejuvenate and restore mind and body. The resort has many room categories, but each is designed to delight in its own special way. On a walk around the property (they have plenty of buggies to take you around as well), I am drawn to the original cottages built by Bawa. Dubbed ‘Luxury Suites with Terraces’ today, they were once called the Bawa Garden Suites.

Here, just as in the common areas, the Coorays, the family that owns the Jetwing chain, have ensured that the main Bawa features have been retained by ensuring the uplift was done by the original architect’s protégé Vinod Jayasinghe.

You can still relax in the little garden, enjoy the traditional rain drums, and appreciate the natural light filling the open-to-sky courtyard. Look up, and you’ll see the clever use of multiple layers of the curvy Sinhala ulu tiles made of baked clay. In traditional homes, people use only one of two layers. Bawa turned the practical tile into a decorative feature as well. 

 

Lagoon life

While a few of the luxury suites (like mine) are lagoon-facing, and some boast garden views, many of the rooms are arrayed around the famous 100-metre swimming pool, one of the longest in the country. If you prefer swimming closer to the sea, their second pool is next to the vastness of the Indian Ocean, and the sandy beach is a two-minute walk across the road.

Geoffrey’s Pavilion, which was once another restaurant, is now the perfect open area for everything from sunrise yoga to resonant sound healing to workshops and meetings. If you want to step out to see the sights of Negombo, the resort curates lovely visits to the bustling Lellema fish market, the historic Dutch fortress, and several stunning churches (we loved the pastel-hued St. Mary’s).

The colourful Angurukaramulla temple with its imposing dragon entrance, six-metre Buddha, paintings of Sinhala rulers, sculptures that offer glimpses into Buddha’s life, and a secret section that even depicts what sinners can expect in hell is well worth a visit. In the right season, you can even jet ski, water ski or do a birding safari by boat through the Muthurajawela mangroves nearby.

Tourism