Tigers, treetops, and thalipeeth: A Pench sojourn

The salmon-pink sun was just stretching its limbs behind sal and eucalyptus trees when our jeep rolled through the Teliya Gate of Pench National Park at 5 a.m. The air was electric with birdsong and suspense—like nature’s very own drumroll. Somewhere in the distance, a langur probably sipped its morning latte while judging our city shoes.

As a former English literature student, Pench had long fascinated me—not just for its wildlife but because it served as the leafy muse for Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book. Yes, THAT Jungle Book. The one where a loincloth-clad man-cub named Mowgli casually battles tigers and makes lifelong friends with a bear and a panther. Beats Tinder, if you ask me.

Luxury that growls (softly)

My stay at Sterling Orient Woods Pench was as plush as it was poetic. Think, rustic villas disguised as forest dwellings from the outside but hiding five-star indulgence on the inside. Every morning, I sipped chai on a private balcony facing the Pench Wildlife Sanctuary while birds tweeted IRL—no hashtags required.

The resort’s stone-paved paths, Zen gardens, and chirping chorus of winged residents provided a detox for the soul—and a guilt-free excuse to forget Wi-Fi existed. Honestly, if the jungle had a spa, this would be it.

Jungle gym: The real safari workout

Pench, straddling the border of Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra, is a paradise for anyone who enjoys suspense, scenery, or squirrels. Home to over 300 bird species and An ensemble cast of wild characters—think leopards, sloth bears, deer varieties that sound made-up (chinkara, chousingha), and civets who look like they run boutique coffee roasters.

My safari guide, the ever-enthusiastic Pankaj Sharma, was a walking encyclopedia with binoculars. “Look! Egyptian Vulture. Critically endangered. Like Delhi’s clean air,” he quipped.

Though the elusive tiger refused to make an appearance (clearly camera shy), I did feel mildly stalked by what I’m convinced was a judging jungle cat in the bushes. Or possibly a judgmental squirrel.

The tale of Collarwali and BMW

Pench’s tiger royalty includes legends like Collarwali, the tigress who birthed 29 cubs and raised them like a one-feline army. Locals call her “Super Mom”, and honestly, she deserves her own Netflix series.

Then there’s BMW, a strapping male tiger so named because his stripe pattern spells out the car brand’s initials. He hasn’t signed a brand deal yet, but we remain hopeful.

Birds, banks, and Bollywood vibes

One of my favourite spots was Sitaghat, a dreamy stretch along the river Pench where birds strutted like they were on a Sabyasachi runway.

The mighty Satpura ranges and Seoni hills made frequent cameos in my Instagram stories, while the Wainganga River—the same one from Mowgli’s epic showdown with Sher Khan—provided the perfect setting for some melodramatic musings. I half-expected Baloo the bear to show up humming ‘The Bare Necessities’.

Beyond big cats: small wonders and sambar moments

Contrary to popular belief, Pench isn’t just about tigers. The real thrill lies in its diverse cast: Indian leopards with poker faces, gaurs (massive bison-like creatures with gym memberships), and the occasional porcupine who looks like it accidentally attended a rave.

Guided nature walks taught us how to read pugmarks like jungle Morse code, while jeep safaris felt like bumpy treasure hunts with better odds than online dating.

Experiences with a wild twist

Orient Woods went the extra wild mile with bespoke activities, including night safaris with eyes peeled for creatures who don’t believe in curfews. Boating on the Khokha River, where even the breeze feels untamed. Village tours and pottery demos reminded me that humans, too, have roots. The Machan at Raiyakassa, where rare vultures search for lunch with the intensity of food bloggers at a buffet

Starry nights and spicy bites

One of the highlights was dining under a constellation-studded sky at Sigri, the resort’s open-format restaurant. The menu? A regional flavour bomb. Kolhapuri mutton, Bhopali gosht, and dal bafla flirted with bhakri and thalipeeth while we flirted with the idea of second helpings. A high tea at the treetop Machan café, with hot pakoras and masala chai, was the kind of experience that makes city stress melt faster than butter on a bhakri.

While Pench didn’t grant me a tiger sighting, it gifted something far more precious—silence, wonder, and a reconnection with nature. And let’s be honest: any place that lets you stargaze over dal bafla deserves a return visit.

Quick Guide to Pench

Best time: October to June (Avoid monsoons unless you’re auditioning for Survivor)   

Getting there: Fly to Nagpur, then drive ~90 mins to Pench

Don’t miss: Sitaghat, night safaris, local cuisine, and pretending you’re Mowgli

Packing tip: Neutral clothes, good binoculars, and an open heart

Tourism