In the lap of Chinnar: A wildlife sojourn

When most people think of Kerala’s wilderness, they envision tropical evergreen or moist deciduous forests, lush green hills and tropical canopies. The image holds true for much of the state with sanctuaries like Periyar (also a tiger reserve), Silent Valley, and Wayanad showcasing the tropical richness Kerala is famous for. But, a sanctuary lies in the eastern shadows of the state, that defies this norm. Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary.

 

It is known as the home of the Grizzled Giant Squirrel—one of the four squirrel species found in India, and endemic to the jungles of south India and Sri Lanka. Chinnar is the only place in Kerala that shelters these large, tree-dwelling rodents, which serve as the flagship species of the sanctuary. The sanctuary also supports a healthy population of Indian Star Tortoises. More than just a sightseeing trip, this journey turned out to be an eye-opening experience - one that deepened our understanding of the essential need to keep our surroundings clean and well preserved.

 

The rain shadow region of the Western Ghats

 

Chinnar lies in the rain shadow region of the Western Ghats and receives less rainfall. This landscape is therefore more similar to the dry zones of Tamil Nadu than to humid interior of Kerala. Sprawling across approximately 90 square kilometres, this sanctuary is adjacent to the Anamalai tiger reserve in Tamil Nadu. The landscape of this sanctuary is dominated by dry deciduous forests, thorny scrublands, open grasslands and riparian forests.

 

Even though small in size, this sanctuary is rich in wildlife. In addition to the grizzled giant squirrel and Indian star tortoise, this sanctuary is home to elephants, leopards, Indian gaurs, wild boars, sambar deer, dholes, spotted deer, muntjacs (also known as barking deer), gray langurs, and bonnet macaques. While tigers are occasionally spotted in Chinnar, they are not considered permanent residents, but rather transient visitors from adjoining forests. The world’s smallest wild cat—the Rusty-spotted cat—inhabits the jungles of Chinnar. Recently, the Eurasian otter was also recorded here as well, highlighting the richness of its riparian ecosystem.

 

Beyond its rich mammalian diversity, Chinnar is a paradise for birdlife. A wide variety of avian species can be found here, alongside a diverse range of reptiles—including mugger crocodile—and several species of amphibians.

 

Chinnar and its adjoining Manjampatti Valley has recorded the presence of the elusive albino gaur, or “white bison”—a rare ash-grey variant distinguished by its near-white coat. Since the late 1920s, only around twenty sightings have been officially recorded. The only confirmed evidence came in 2004, when noted wildlife photographer N.A. Naseer captured clear images of a white gaur moving within a herd in Chinnar—the only documented photographic record from the region.

 

Our journey

 

My friend Vishnu Prasad and I decided to visit Chinnar to take a break from our professional commitments. Since we both share a love for nature and wildlife, we decided to visit place in the third week of April. Given that April marks the summer holidays for all schools and other educational institutions, we anticipated heavy tourist footfall in Chinnar, Munnar and the adjoining areas. Our apprehension proved to be true as we witnessed heavy traffic en route.

 

We had booked our stay at Pambaar log house a week prior to the journey. The bookings have to be made through the Munnar Wildlife Division website (https://munnarwildlife.in) which is the official online portal of the Kerala Forest Department for managing ecotourism and conservation efforts in the Munnarforest region. The site offers detailed information about protected areas under the division, including Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, Eravikulam National Park, Anamudi Shola, Pampadum Shola, Mathikettan Shola, and Kurinjimala Sanctuary. The visitors can learn about wildlife, trekking options, and ecotourism activities, book forest stays at log houses and eco-lodges, Access contact details and location information making it a user-friendly site for travellers, researchers, and conservation enthusiasts visiting Kerala’s high-range sanctuaries.

 

The day we set off for Chinnar happened to be a Good Friday, significant day in the Christian calendar. We started our journey early in the morning in my car. The roads were temporarily free from the usual hustle-bustle, and we didn’t encounter much traffic - except on the stretch between Neriyamangalam and Adimaly, where road work was in progress. We made our initial halt at Adimaly to have our breakfast. After having the breakfast, Vishnu took charge of the driver seat which he drove till the booking office. The weather was normal that day as we reached Munnar town without much trouble.

 

The town, as usual was buzzing with people, and we saw a large number of tourists from different regions. From there we took a deviation onto the Munnar-Udumalpet (SH-17) route. Our journey was smooth until we passed through the entrance gate of Eravikulam National Park. Just a few furlongs ahead, we encountered the spectre that we had feared - a traffic jam.

 

We were forced to halt for nearly 45 minutes, as a long queue of cars, tourist buses stretched out ahead of us. The reason for the congestion was the lack of adequate parking space for visitors to Eravikulam NP. With parking unavailable, visitors were forced to park their vehicles along both sides of the road, severely obstructing the traffic flow. The sense of altruism kicked in as I hopped out of the car to join others who were trying to manage the traffic. Looking up at the hairpin bends above, I could see a long line of vehicles waiting impatiently. Even two-wheelers struggled to snake their way through the congestion.

 

Somehow we managed to mitigate the traffic to some extent. I had instructed Vishnu to pick me up when vehicles began to move freely again. However as we proceeded about 10 km further, we encountered yet another congestion- this time at the entrance of Lakkam waterfalls, a scenic waterfall and popular tourist destination located along the Munnar–Marayoor–Udumalpet road. Just like at Eravikulam National park, the issue was lack of parking, and once again, that spirit of helpfulness compelled me to step in as I had done before.

 

We passed through the famous Marayoor Sandalwood division, a prominent forest area which is renowned for housing the only natural sandalwood forest in Kerala. The sandalwood trees here are protected and administered by the Kerala Forest department, which manages a sandalwood processing depot. This is where harvested sandalwood is stored, weighed, processed and auctioned under strict government control. Additionally, the department operates a sandalwood oil factory at Marayoor, producing and selling pure sandalwood oil through a regulated auction system.

 

Trek to our accommodation

 

We had our lunch from a small hotel just before reaching the Marayoor town. Unlike Munnar, the town was not too crowded as Munnar town, allowing us to pass through easily. From there, we continued to the Chinnar Vanajyothsna Amenity Centre. As we left Marayoor, the landscape gradually transitions from the natural sandalwood groves to dry deciduous forests and open grasslands characteristic of the Chinnar region. The road is generally narrow but motorable, winding gently through forested terrain. We took around 30 minutes to reach the amenity center and en route we didn’t see any wildlife.

 

Chinnar Vanajyothsna Amenity Centre- located at the Chinnar checkpost, serves as a visitor hub just inside the sanctuary. Managed by the forest department, it functions as an information center, rest stop, cafeteria, and pick-up point for guided treks, permits, and campsite check-ins.

 

We reached the booking centre and began completing the check-in formalities. However, the staff informed us that the stay option we had booked was under renovation. As an alternative, they assigned us to the Churulipetty Log House—located about 3 km from the check post, approximately the same distance as the Pambaar Log House. Before trekking to the spot, we were assigned a guide named Ramu- a young local who lives within the sanctuary. At the checkpost, we also met a couple of youngsters from Kottayam, who had booked their stay at Periyakomb log house - another forest log accommodation deep inside the sanctuary.

After completing all the formalities, we then embarked on a moderately easy, half hour walk along a narrow forest path that passes through dry deciduous woodland and occasional patches of open grassland. Along the way, we crossed a stretch that ran close to the Chinnar River, offering a perfect view of the riparian ecosystem—serene glimpses of flowing water flanked by lush vegetation, bamboo groves, and rocky outcrops.

 

We happened to spot a few wildlife along the way. The first was the flagship species of the sanctuary—the Grizzled Giant Squirrel—perched high atop a tree. Upon sensing our presence, it swiftly climbed higher and soon disappeared from sight. The second animal who appeared in front of us during the trek, was a female sambar deer, which was standing and gazing at us anxiously a few meters away. It was so close to us that it didn’t took its eyes off from us. The second animal we encountered during the trek was a female sambar deer, standing at the edge of the thicket and gazing at us with cautious curiosity. She was so close that we had a clear and unobstructed view of her. I had my camera slung around my neck, and as I slowly raised it—lens poised—she suddenly darted into the undergrowth, disappearing within seconds.

 

We also witnessed an unusual sight of a herd of domestic cattle suddenly charging towards us, as if something had terrified them. Their stampede along the narrow trail created a cloud of dust that quickly enveloped the area. Ramu speculated that a predator might have startled the animals, especially since we soon heard the alarm call of a peacock nearby. He added that our presence may have discouraged the predator from pursuing the herd. However, no animal emerged from the thicket, and the mystery remained unsolved. Along the way, we passed a dilapidated building, which Ramu explained had once been part of a human settlement. The area was later reclaimed by the forest department as part of conservation efforts.

 

We reached the log house after a trek of nearly 45 minutes. Ramu went in first to do a quick cleaning, while we waited outside, taking photographs and soaking in the scenic landscape. The log house is perched gently sloping terrain, it opens into a small clearing surrounded by dry deciduous forest, with the view of Chinnar river flowing below. Built primarily on eucalyptus and teak logs, this accommodation has large windows and broad veranda to frame the panoramic views of the forest. Designed with eco-conscious sensibilities the cabin is simply furnished, with wooden beds, a modest seating area, and natural ventilation. Electricity is minimal, typically powered by solar panels- sufficient for basic lighting and charging needs.

 

The log house is surrounded and protected by sturdy stone wall that deters wildlife-especially elephants-from the entering the vicinity. This stone wall blends well with surrounding while providing essential protection to the visitors. On the opposite side of the Chinnar River from the Churulipetty Log House, lies the Anamalai Tiger Reserve in Tamil Nadu. Since it’s contiguous with Chinnar Wildlife sanctuary the area forms a crucial corridor for wildlife especially elephants, gaurs, leopards and occasionally tigers. The Chinnar River serves as a natural boundary between Kerala and Tamil Nadu in this region. The river originates in the Anamalai Hills and flows eastward through the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary before joining the Amaravati River in Tamil Nadu.

 

We unloaded our bags and other paraphernalia and decided to take a dip in the river. In the meantime, Vishnu asked Ramu—who was about to leave for the forest office to make some additional arrangements—to bring a large sack. As we relaxed by the riverbank, we spotted a pair of peacocks—a male and a female—on the opposite bank. They crossed over into the Chinnar side and then walked with a deliberate, graceful gait into the thicket, their presence adding to the serene charm of the landscape.

 

We bathed in the river as the water was calm and not flowing rapidly. However, we kept an eye on the submerged rocks, which were slippery, where a fall could turn out to be fatal. Later we were joined by Ponnappan, a local guide. As darkness began to set in, we returned to the cabin. We were served black tea and sat discussing topics related to our professions and the environment. Later that night, we enjoyed a salubrious dinner. Lightning flashed across the sky—an eerie yet magnificent sight—illuminating the massive hill facing the log house, known as Pandhamala, which gleamed in all its essence.

 

Before going to sleep, I noticed both Ramu and Ponnappan preparing their beds outside under a thatched roof annexed to the log house. I invited them to sleep inside, considering the unpredictability of the jungle. However, they politely refused, assuring us they were not afraid and were quite comfortable sleeping outdoors. They added that they were well-acquainted with the forest and its ways. Still, as a precaution, I told them to feel free to knock on the door if they felt uncomfortable at any point. Later, Vishnu and I drifted into a deep, undisturbed sleep.

 

That said, the log house does have a few minor drawbacks. There were visible holes made by rats, which could occasionally disturb a guest’s sleep—though fortunately, we slept quite comfortably. Another concern is the lack of a walkie-talkie or communication device for the guide accompanying the guests. In case of a night-time emergency, the guide would have to walk nearly 3km through dense forest—home to elephants, leopards, and venomous snakes—to reach the amenity centre and alert the authorities. Thankfully, nothing of that sort happened during our stay.

 

Return

 

We woke up very early, drawn by the sheer beauty of the scenery outside. The mewing call of a peacock added a soothing touch to the harmonious chorus of morning birds. As the sun rose, its golden rays cast a warm glow over the landscape, especially over the river, which meandered gracefully through the rocks. Vishnu took my camera and walked downhill to capture some landscape images. On the opposite bank of the river, a troop of macaques were seen moving about.

 

I struck up a conversation with Ponnappan, who shared detailed insights about the sanctuary and the tribal communities that inhabit the region. He recalled having once seen a leopard quenching its thirst at the riverbank, just across from the log house. He also mentioned a temple located deep within the forest on the Tamil Nadu side, in a tribal settlement called Kodanthoor. It is regularly visited by devotees from Udumalpet, Chinnar, Marayoor, and Kanthalloor, especially on Sundays when special poojas and prayers are offered.

 

After taking a few photographs, we prepared to check out. Vishnu and I spoke with Ponnappan about the concerning plastic litter along the riverbank—particularly on the opposite side, where heaps had accumulated. He explained that devotees visiting the temple across the river were largely responsible for the pollution, which poses a threat to wildlife. In fact, Vishnu had spotted and photographed a bonnet macaque holding a discarded water bottle can that morning. With this in mind, he instructed Ramu to bring a large sack so we could help clean up—at least on the Chinnar side, as crossing to the Tamil Nadu side isn't permitted.

 

Before leaving, we began collecting the scattered plastics around the log house and riverbank. Ponnappan joined in, becoming an eager participant in our small, impromptu restoration effort. Once we paused to complete the check-out formalities, we resumed our cleanup on the trek back to the amenity centre, carrying the sack along with our luggage and collecting litter along the trail. While doing so, we remained alert—scanning the path ahead and the thickets to the side as we saw a trees being pushed aside by elephants. In addition to that, a few months earlier, a man had tragically been trampled by a bull elephant in the area. Ponnappan also told us about ‘Virikomban’, a majestic tusker frequently sighted along the Marayoor–Udumalpet road, known for occasionally wandering through Chinnar Sanctuary.

Interestingly, much of the litter we collected was found along an active migratory path used by elephants. These pachyderms regularly traverse from Chinnar to Manjampatti valley moving through the Anamalai Tiger reserve. This transboundary corridor that spans across Kerala and Tamil Nadu is part of an ancient route that supports seasonal migration, access to water, and gene flow between elephant populations—making its protection vital for conservation. Therefore, littering these paths can be detrimental to elephants, as there have been reports of fatalities caused by the ingestion of plastic waste. Other wildlife species are also at serious risk from such pollution.

 

 

We continued collecting litter amidst the scorching heat, and a few meters ahead, we saw a barking deer hurriedly dart across the trail. Soon after, we encountered the same herd of cattle we had seen the previous day—this time, they were grazing peacefully. As we neared the booking office, we noticed a large post tilted backward, with its base visibly uprooted. Ponnappan explained that it was likely the handiwork of Virikomban during one of his sojourns through Chinnar. Along the trail, we also found a few porcupine quills. I was tempted to keep them as a souvenir, but since the law strictly prohibits the possession of any wildlife parts, I decided against it. By the time we finished, the sack was full—loaded with litter we had collected along the trail and from the banks of the Chinnar River. We returned to the booking office and had our breakfast. The waste we gathered was handed over to the concerned officials, and we bid farewell to everyone who had assisted us during our stay.

 

On our way back, we made a brief halt at the Alampetty range office to have a cup of jaggery tea. As I stepped into the small tea stall, memories came rushing back—of a trek I had done four years ago with my college friends, during which we had come across fresh tiger pug marks along the trail.

 

After finishing our tea, we resumed our journey. Thankfully, there was no traffic congestion at Lakkam or Eravikulam, and we reached Munnar by afternoon. A thick mist blanketed Munnar and the Pallivasal area, through which our vehicle pierced like a tracer bullet. By the time we reached Adimaly, heavy rain began to pour, followed by intermittent showers all the way to Kochi.

 

Our journey to Chinnar was more than a retreat into the wild. It was a reminder of our responsibility toward nature. Amidst all its beauty and rich biodiversity, the sight of plastic wastes along the trail and riverbanks stood out as a stark contrast. It underscored a simple yet powerful message- preserving wilderness begins with our everyday actions. By keeping our surroundings clean and respecting natural places we ensure that places like Chinnar remain safe havens for wildlife and future generations to come.

 

The author is an HR professional. 

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