Dubai: A city whose eclectic culinary landscape never ceases to surprise

 “This is the pecan tart, ash-roasted artichokes, butterscotch floss, and black fruit ice cream. We made the tartlet at the bottom with chocolate and roasted artichokes. We then added some caramelised milk and pecan nuts and added some soan papdi flavoured with butterscotch. The ice cream is inspired by murabba, so we made it from black apple, black pineapples, and black mango. There is a crisp on top, layered with a puree of dates with yoghurt whey, and we add some zest of orange,” explains Chef Himanshu Saini. I am at Trèsind Studio in Dubai, which has just made history by winning three Michelin stars, the first for an Indian cuisine restaurant.

 

Having been invited by Dubai Department of Economy & Tourism (DET) to understand the gastronomic offerings of the city, I am blown away with the precision with which Chef Saini serves his courses. At the end of three hours, this is a meal that has completely changed my perception of how Indian food has possibly got the best global makeover while keeping taste and flavour intact. And with this kind of start, I instinctively know that this trip will be all things epicurean.

 

The next day I start with a hearty breakfast at W Dubai – Mina Seyahi, which also has an avocado station that serves everything from a smoothie to a salad and more. But I choose to eat light, as it’s a new day filled with more foodie adventures. My first stop is at Ganache Chocolatier, located at the artsy Alserkal Avenue. A homegrown, Emirati-owned brand, this is where I indulge in a decadent chocolate tasting experience. The space source's finest ingredients from Switzerland, Belgium, and France, and it has over 100 unique chocolate flavours. Jamil Hourani, a corporate manager, tells me, “None of our boxes are pre-packed, as we want clients to taste and buy fresh.” The za’atar-flavoured chocolate, a best seller, is not to be missed.

 

For lunch I head to TakaHisa, a Japanese omakase restaurant. The entry to the special table is through the back door of a bag store that almost feels like entering a speakeasy. The intimate space embraces the essence of Japanese culinary etiquette with the timeless ritual of saying ‘Itadakimasu’ before indulging in a dining experience. Here I meet culinary virtuosos, Wagyu master Chef Hisao Ueda and sushi master Chef Takashi Namekata, who work their magic creating the food in front of my eyes. I tried the vegetarian food and can say that the herb salad made with fennel, arugula, marigold, alyssum and other edible herbs and flowers, with premium Japanese extra virgin olive oil, was top-notch. My colleagues who had the sushi were swooning over the freshness of the produce and vouched for the fact that this was probably the best they have ever tasted.

 

And while I thought I could not be surprised any more, my dinner at FZN Dubai changed everything. Located at the hip Palm Jumeirah, this 3 Michelin-starred restaurant by Björn Frantzén can be entered when you ring a bell at an innocuous-looking door. A reception area here has a lift that takes you to the ‘living room’, a cosy Scandinavian-inspired space that serves aperitifs and snacks. I also get a quick introduction of the ingredients and a tour of the well-stocked wine ‘cellar’ before heading to the 27-seat dining space where the chefs are at work. Choosing a seat that gives me a view of the island kitchen, I sample an excellent meal of European fine dining with Japanese influences. Acclaimed chef Björn Frantzén and Danish head chef Torsten Vildgaard have created an experience that is sure to send you to culinary heaven. On my last day I stop by for some more fun food experiences at Gerbou, which serves modern Emirati fare led by Chef Ionel Catau, and Kira, which serves a fusion of Greek and Japanese food. I also manage to squeeze in an afternoon tea experience at Shai Salon & Terrace, Four Seasons Resort, with sandwiches, scones, and sweet treats by Chef Nicolas Lambert. As I watch the sun paint the sky in hues of yellow and orange from the terrace here, I realise I have just scratched the surface of the multitude of culinary experiences and promise to be back again.

 

Rao is a freelance writer and photographer based in Bengaluru.

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