On the road to Phetchaburi: Notes from a journey through the Ramayana, puppets, memory, and Thailand

Light and salt

The highway unfurls southwest from Bangkok, the skyline yielding to a gritty industrial sprawl, like flesh giving way to bone. Rusting factories and half-abandoned warehouses line the road. Amid this landscape, roadside shrines appear. Spirit-houses on pedestals, garlanded with wilting marigolds and red soda bottles. Traffic thunders past, but these shrines remain still.

In Samut Sakhon, the road flattens into a horizon of salt fields where rectangular pools mirror the bleached sky, white pyramids of salt crystals luminous in noon light. A lone worker rakes slowly, gathering the crystals into neat rows. His labour, a salve against poverty, appears, at this privileged distance, like meditation. The river behind the fields was once a key trading route, when Phetchaburi's jaggery ferried along these waters, sweetening distant tongues.

Past the flats, in Samut Songkhram, a colossal Buddha rises in suspended creation. Its torso unfinished, scaffolding clinging to his arms, a crane stooped at his shoulder like a mechanical surgeon. The Buddha’s face half-formed, gaze impassive, he watches a stream of cars below.

For six years, through many trips like this one, I’ve followed the Ramayana through Southeast Asia – not as scripture, but as tradition shaped by artists, belief, rural and ecological rhythms, and politics. In Laos,...

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