The Shibori way to sustainable fashion
Shibori is an ancient Japanese art form that involves manipulating fabric before dyeing it, using techniques such as folding, bending and squeezing. In India, similar techniques are known as Bandhani, Leheriya, Garchola, Plangi, or simply tie-and-dye. These variations in terminology reflect differences in technique, yet Shibori remains both an art and a craft, celebrated today for its beauty and individuality. It has also inspired many contemporary textile and fashion designers.
While many have blended Shibori with Indian handicraft techniques like Bandhej and Leheriya, a young fashion entrepreneur and revivalist, Heena, a Jaipur-based textile artist and co-founder of the sustainable clothing brand ‘HeenAgrima’, stands out for her zero-waste creations that combine the Shibori technique with Indian textiles.
Heena was invited by the Phulkari Women of Amritsar to conduct a masterclass, where she shared insights and the science behind creating sustainable, zero-waste clothing that elevates style without polluting rivers and water bodies.
“Our goal is to create art in the form of clothing using completely natural, plant-extracted dyes and fabrics made from cotton waste, such as Bemberg, which is a regenerated cellulose fibre. We are a zero-waste company and over the past five years, we have become increasingly mindful of our impact on the environment,” Heena said.
A fourth-generation textile entrepreneur, Heena began her journey with online classes conducted from her room. “I started with just two students during the Covid pandemic and have since researched over 200 plant species for natural dye extraction. We work with dry, fresh and waste flowers and leaves to produce natural colours and patterns.”
Her garments pique interest for their unique designs and techniques, which sometimes include hand-painted motifs and intricate colour compositions. She primarily works with natural fabrics such as silk and cotton, entwining natural dyeing methods that, as described on her brand’s official website, create “a poetic dance of vernacular plants and cultural tapestries.”
During the masterclass, participants explored Shibori-inspired folding, clamping, flower printing and dye manipulation techniques using natural dyes derived from marigold, wood, indigo and iron rust.
Akanksha Aggarwal, activity chairperson and an artist, said, “This wasn’t just about making beautiful scarves. It was about reviving traditional techniques in a meaningful way. We wanted to offer our members a mindful afternoon of learning and community that honours India’s craft legacy.”
Vrinda Sindhwani, co-chair of the event, added, “What made this event special was that every participant created something by hand, a scarf and a scrunchie dyed with natural colours. It was a personal, sustainable keepsake and a tangible connection to our roots.”
Minakshi Khanna, president of Phulkari Women of Amritsar, underscored the organisation’s commitment to preserving India’s artisan traditions. “By supporting designers and brands like these, we keep our heritage crafts alive. Our members understand that sustainability involves learning, sharing and making conscious choices that respect our cultural legacy,” she added.
Part of the broader sustainable fashion movement, which aims to minimise environmental impact and rethink how clothes are made, used and discarded, Heena’s brand, HeenaAgrima, is a push towards preserving India’s heritage crafts while promoting the ‘Vocal for Local’ ethos, she said.
She added, “These experiences also contribute to women’s empowerment by expanding skills and knowledge that can be shared or developed into entrepreneurial ventures. They foster community engagement at the grassroots level, build awareness of indigenous products and support livelihoods for artisan communities. In doing so, they demonstrate the power of culture, education and collective action to sustain India’s rich storytelling traditions in every thread and dye.”
Amritsar