Chettinad: A festival of heritage, homes and heirlooms
There are places that seem built not just of stone and mortar, but of stories, traditions, and living memory. Chettinad, tucked away in Tamil Nadu, is one such realm—a cultural treasure where mansions gleam with Belgian glass, verandahs echo with the footsteps of history, and kitchens carry the fragrance of age-old recipes. Known across the world for its fiery cuisine, Chettinad reveals itself most beautifully through its heritage—its palatial homes, temples, and traditions—woven together into a tapestry that continues to inspire.
Just two hours from Madurai, the land of the Nattukottai Chettiars opens its doors to travellers seeking something beyond the ordinary: dreamlike settings, architectural marvels, and a cuisine that is as bold as it is nuanced. Chettinad restaurants in metros and abroad may offer a taste of its flavours, but to step into Chettinad itself is to enter a living museum—one where history is not only preserved but also lived.
Mansions born of merchant dreams
The Chettiars were merchant bankers who returned from Burma, Sri Lanka, Malaysia and other trading outposts in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, bringing with them wealth, ideas, and a cosmopolitan worldview. Their prosperity found expression in the mansions they built—palaces of stucco, teak, and marble that combined Dravidian traditions with European, Burmese, and Art Deco influences.
Step inside one, and you are enveloped by opulence: pillared courtyards gilded teak furniture, carved rosewood rafters, stained glass skylights, Athangudi tiles in bold patterns, Italian marble floors, and frescoes depicting gods, myths, and flowers.
Among the jewels
Chettinad Palace (Sivaganga Palace) in Kanadukathan, built in 1912 by Raja Sir Annamalai Chettiar, still dazzles with its fusion of Italian marble, Belgian glass, Burmese teak, and Athangudi tiles. Though privately owned, even a glimpse of its façade—domes, arches, and sweeping proportions—is breathtaking.
Chettinad Mansion (Kanadukathan), spread over 40,000 sq. ft., allows guests to live like royalty with its courtyards, marble-pillared halls, and grand corridors.
Chidambara Vilas (Kadiapatti), a 110-year-old mansion, today operates as a luxury heritage hotel, adorned with gold-leafed ornamentation, Belgian chandeliers, and masterful teakwork.
Saratha Vilas (Kothamangalam), restored by French architects, retains stucco embellishments and airy courtyards.
MSMM House (Karaikudi) showcases dazzling Belgian mirrors, gilded interiors, and enamelware—a glimpse into the family homes that remain private, yet occasionally open to visitors with local connections.
Every home whispers of an era when wealth was matched with artistry, when global influences mingled seamlessly with Tamil traditions.
The Bangala and Visalam: Heritage reimagined
Many of these palatial homes have now found a new lease of life as heritage hotels. The most iconic of them is The Bangala in Karaikudi, a gracious property that feels more like a warm household than a hotel. Its matriarch, Meenakshi Meyyappan, infused it with her passion for perfection—from painstaking restoration to curating menus that preserve the true flavours of Chettinad. Under her stewardship, The Bangala became a global name, welcoming guests as family and giving Chettinad pride of place on India’s cultural map.
In Kanadukathan, Visalam an art deco beauty restored by CGH Earth, is another splendid example. Built in 1939 as a father’s gift to his daughter Visalakshi, it stands today as a living chronicle of Chettinad’s grandeur. With airy verandahs, stained glass, and Athangudi tiles, Visalam is more than a hotel—it is a doorway into Chettinad’s soul, where guests experience not just architecture but cuisine, artistry, and tradition in their authentic forms.
Beyond the mansions: Crafts, temples and textiles
Chettinad’s treasures extend beyond its mansions. Its temples, built by the Nagarathar community, are as magnificent as its homes. Rich in sculptures, murals, and towering gopurams, they are cultural as well as spiritual centres, embodying the Chettiar devotion to art and architecture alike.
Equally captivating are the craft traditions that still thrive here:
Athangudi tiles—handmade, vividly patterned, and unique to this region.
Chettinad sarees (Kandangi cottons)—sophisticated textiles with bold checks and stripes, honoured with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag.
Antique bazaar —filled with priceless artefacts that once belonged to these homes, from enamelware to wooden chests and brass lamps.
A local museum—offering intimate insights into Chettinad ways of living.
Each encounter is a reminder that Chettinad is not a relic, but a culture alive in its craftspeople, cooks, and custodians.
The festival that revives a legacy
Chettinad Heritage & Cultural Festival – September 12 to 16, 2025
If Chettinad is a story, the Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival is its most spirited retelling. Launched around 2019 by Meenakshi Meyyappan, with support from the late Yacob George (then General Manager of The Bangala), the festival was conceived to raise awareness of this extraordinary region. Over four days, mansions open their courtyards, temples resound with music, chefs serve up traditional feasts, artisans demonstrate their craft, and heritage walks immerse travellers in history.
The festival, now in its fourth edition, is organised by the Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Trust in collaboration with heritage hotels like The Bangala - Karaikudi, Chidambara Vilas - Kadiapatti, Visalam CGH Earth, The Lotus Palace, Chettinadu Mansion, Chettinadu Court - Kanadukathan & Saratha Vilas, Kothamangalam. It is not merely an event but a movement—bringing global attention to Chettinad while sustaining its artisans, musicians, and cooks.
Sam John, general manager of Visalam, puts it eloquently: “As a heritage property in the heart of Chettinad, Visalam is deeply honoured to be part of the Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival. This festival is a remarkable celebration of the region’s grandeur, its palatial mansions, intricate craftsmanship, living traditions, and its enduring cultural identity. Chettinad has always been a land where art, architecture, cuisine, and devotion converge to create an extraordinary way of life, and the festival allows us to share this richness with the world.”
He continues, “This year, Visalam will host an art exhibition that juxtaposes timeless traditions like Tanjore and Kalamkari painting with contemporary narratives, reaffirming that heritage is not static but evolving—a dialogue between past and present.”
Chettinad: A living tapestry
The Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival is much more than a spectacle—it is a journey into the soul of Tamil Nadu. To walk through its courtyards, watch artisans at work, listen to Carnatic strains in its temples, and savour a meal on a banana leaf is to experience a culture both opulent and earthy, rooted yet global.
Chettinad is not simply about mansions and meals—it is about an enduring way of life. Each festival, each restored mansion, each revived craft ensures that the world remembers this land where wealth was turned into beauty, and tradition into living art.
As Chettinad comes alive once again this September, it beckons travellers to witness not just heritage preserved, but heritage celebrated. A celebration that honours the past, enlivens the present, and inspires the future.
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