Embrace the ‘Pahadi Way’: A deep dive into Shimla's soul

Shimla. 6pm. The Pahadi sun announces itself by parting clouds. The once-mischievous mist, spread over the hills like a packet of spoilt milk, obediently tucks itself into the folds of the Lesser Himalayas. I am there too, unable to unglue my eyes from the unending sights before me, with no consciousness of the clock ticking by. Shimla was only one of eight destinations we visited during our two-week long college tour, yet it's the only one that makes it onto my keyboard. Once visited, the Himachali capital will engulf your soul in a mist you may not be able to escape out of - and you'll never want to.

 

Initially, we weren’t even supposed to visit Shimla. Rampant floods and landslides in Manali made our itinerary change up to a destination slightly southward, and slightly less risk-prone. Even then, before we commenced our 339-kilometre journey from New Delhi, news broke that Shimla too, was under the threat of landslides. The sights of soil being eroded onto the hilly roads didn’t help the cause. It was with this mild skepticism that we greeted Shimla - but its return gift were sceneries that will stay stuck to the back of your mind, until you die.

 

In no way is mist a new sight to my eyes, or my friends that accompanied me. However, in the tired eyes that had travelled half the country by that point, I could see childlike wonder, I could see an incredulousness that other places before or after couldn’t bring about. Every face glued to the edge of the mountains, every hand pointing a camera that captured a frame that rivals a Bob Ross painting.

 

The stunning views aren’t limited to the city boundaries of the Himachali capital. If one is to visit Shimla, it would be foolish not to scale the valley-like hills of Kufri, where the green meadows and view of faraway peaks might give you the impression that you’re walking through a Bollywood film location in Switzerland. You would soon be brought back to reality though, as the smell of Daal Chawal and Masala Chai snips at your stone-cold nose. During winter, the potato plantations and low-lying hills transform into ski peaks, hence its nickname - Snow Queen. Us being the early September tourists, we didn’t get a sniff of the adventure sports at all, although the journey from Shimla to the top of Kufri is almost a rollercoaster ride in itself.

 

At a bus stop 3,000 feet above mean sea level, Sonu bhai’s crimson Mahindra Thar waited to take us from the ‘base-camp’ to the top - but the car ride was beyond our expectations. The trek would be tricky enough for a walking human being to traverse, let alone a car - although our driver’s expertise and a little bit of 4x4 magic helped us get to the top rather smoothly, if you can even call it that. If there’s no mist around, and if you’re daring enough to open your eyes, you may look out of the vehicle to enjoy some breathtaking views of the Lesser Himalayas. On our way back, we made sure to capture those unforgettable colour palettes.

 

It feels natural to praise the panorama of the former summer capital, yet, it’s also insensitive to reduce Shimla to just that. Throw in greenery and some mist, every hill station may appeal to the eye of the beholder. What sets Shimla apart from most other tourist towns in India I’ve visited is its cleanliness. Acting as its flagbearer for cleanliness is Shimla’s Mall Road, or simply ‘The Mall Road’, often described as the best Mall Road in the country.

 

While most Indian tourist destinations have an infamous reputation of having clutters of garbage strewn about its periphery, it would be difficult to find even a piece of paper on the road in The Mall. Rightfully so, we were warned to not even drop a single piece of chocolate wrapper when we entered Mall Road, as it would set us back Rs 5,000 as a penalty (It’s good to note that such penalties are being enforced strictly too). Keeping its cleanliness aside too, The Mall is an elegant place to visit. The architectural residue that the British left by gives way to a few beautiful buildings, and the tiled, pedestrian-only walkway creates a soothing experience you can enjoy without being annoyed by vehicles and their incessant honking every other second.

 

The walk up and across from the drop-off area would have you stroll some laboriously steep inclines to get to the main shopping area, while Shimla’s backdrop provides some pleasing views to your eyes. As the night starts to set in, it’s highly recommend to take a small hike along the side of the church, after which you’ll reach a viewpoint that showcases the city lights of the entirety of Shimla. Put on some relaxing music, surround yourself with the right kind of people (ie, the people who will stay silent at a stunning view), and you’ll find to difficult to track the hands of the clock. Hence, the five hours we were ‘allowed’ at The Mall felt freakishly unnecessary at first, but as we explored the surroundings more and more, it was a race against time to reach back by 10pm to the pickup.

 

When in Rome, do as the Romans do. When in Shimla, you have to follow the Pahadi way. So I did, decorating my bland winterwear with a traditional Pahadi cap on my head, which - according to shopkeeper Kusum Gupta - made me look extremely handsome. The Mall offers a plethora of stores that will draw you in persistently, especially the ones tailored to traditional Himachali clothing and its unique designs. Shopping isn’t (and never should be) limited to clothes only, as Mall Road is also the home to some of Shimla’s finest tastes. One particular restaurant I had in mind, even before stepping foot in the capital, was to try out the famous mutton cutlet from Indian Coffee House situated right at the start of the road. The interior of ICH made the proud Malayali in me feel home with its rustic architecture, dim lighting, and familiar royal uniforms. Only the views outside its window made me realise it was Shimla; Such was its resemblance to an average Indian Coffee House back in Kerala. What wasn’t average, though, was the mutton cutlet itself. Sure, the fried snack was priced aggressively, but its crispy exterior and the soft meat inside made it worth every single rupee we dished out. It was also huge! Almost redefining what a cutlet was with the size, texture, and taste of the item.

 

In hindsight, it’s a bit of an injustice to not feature every single destination that me and my friends went to during this college tour. From Jaisalmer to Darjeeling, from Agra to Gangtok - even going into Nepal - each place has curated its own unique experiences that’ll stay with us forever. Still, Shimla’s different. To a person who’s visited, its beauty will lie deep inside your eyes, rather than simply your heart alone. The pastel-like, true-toned colours of the old summer capital transforms you. Dare I say, Shimla turns a tourist into a traveler.

 

Having explored my fair share of hill stations in south India earlier, as well as the North during this tour, the cozy Himachali town also puts to bed the debate on a nickname being shared with many other highland getaways. Through its beauty, local experiences, cleanliness, and how strongly it makes you feel for it after, Shimla is the most worthy and deserving of the title - The Queen of the Hills.

 

The author is a BTech student at TKM College of Engineering, Kollam, in Kerala. 

Tourism