Khadi: India’s finest product looks at global stage
The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and Moscow Fashion Week signed a partnership two years ago, wherein one designer from India showcases in Moscow, and one Russian designer presents a fashion show in India. As part of this exchange, last week’s Moscow Fashion Week saw Indian designer Samant Chauhan present an all-white collection, inspired by Fyodor Dostoevsky’s ‘White Nights’.
Additionally, FDCI head Sunil Sethi had roped in the Indian government to participate too. Khadi India – Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK), established by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), the Ministry of MSME, was invited to collaborate.
“I have been an advisor to the KVIC for over three years and hold a position on the advisory board of CEOK under the Ministry of MSME,” Sethi says. “For me, this is a natural alliance. Although it is a government enterprise, I see it as my duty to promote Khadi both in India and globally. This endeavour becomes even more seamless when working alongside officials from KVIC.”
Khadi, by definition, is hand spun and hand-woven textile. This means that both the fabric is woven by hand, and the yarn or the thread that makes the fabric is also spun by hand, making khadi the most organic and sustainable fabric in the world.
Most handloom companies only weave the fabric by hand whereas the yarn can be spun by machines. The government of India (under the KVIC) thus provides certification only for those companies that hand-spin and hand-weave, and only after the certification can a company call its products as ‘khadi’. The certification often takes several months to years to come by, hence the administrative problems at KVIC create more problems than solutions. KVIC seems interested in upping its game, and last week’s presentation is a welcome surprise.
Put together by designer Nargis Zaidi, the collection featured a couple of saris as well as tunics, pants, jackets and shirts all worn in contemporary styles. “The collection effortlessly merges modern silhouettes with pure khadi, celebrating the essence of Indian textiles in a contemporary context. Designed for comfort and versatility, these fusion wear pieces blend tradition with modernity, making them perfect for global lifestyles and diverse settings,” Zaidi says.
Zaidi, an alumnus of NIFT Gandhinagar, leads the Apparel division at CoEK. Working in craft-rich Gujarat deepened her love for creativity and culture, she adds. “Working with Khadi feels like a full-circle moment, as it brings together my love for fashion and my deep interest in Indian textiles and crafts. I am grateful to work with a talented team of fashion and textile designers. Each member brings their expertise and passion, and together, we are dedicated to reimagining Khadi for the modern world,” she says.
The Khadi India show began with a video presentation by the ministry on what khadi means to India, ending with an image of Mahatma Gandhi on the spinning wheel, and then one of Prime Minister Narendra Modi behind the spinning wheel. Modi has begun to advocate for Indian textiles too.
The collection proved how modern khadi textile in everyday clothing can be. Cotton, wool, and eri silks were sourced from Khadi institutions from across India – Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, and Assam.
“Sustainability is at the heart of our process. We repurpose leftover fabrics to create new textiles and products, minimising waste and giving new life to materials that might otherwise go unused—staying true to Khadi’s core philosophy of conscious craftsmanship,” Zaidi adds.
Showcasing at Moscow is an important move for Khadi India as it seeks to redefine its place globally. It especially shows traditional weaving techniques intrinsic to India as forward-thinking, versatile material with limitless potential in Western wear.
Several international journalists were introduced to khadi, especially its hand-spinning for the first time. Dora Becher, the editor of L’Officiel, Argentina, and Teresa Napolilo, editor at Marie Claire, Argentina, adored the collection. Nashmia Amir Butt, the editor-in-chief of Grazia, Pakistan, wore a sari to the show to cheer her neighbouring country. “Khadi India’s showcase was a captivating celebration of colour, infusing the runway with vibrant energy,” Butt states.
Zaidi affirms the next few years will see Khadi India redefine its narrative, seamlessly integrating Khadi into modern fashion while strengthening its deep-rooted commitment to sustainability. Additionally, Khadi India plans to explore collaborations with other Indian crafts, incorporating them into Khadi’s hand-spun, hand-woven fabric. Zaidi says they also seek to revive traditional textile techniques such as Jamdani, Bhujodi, Ikat, Kalamkari, Bandhani, and other indigenous crafts, weaving them into the Khadi fabric to preserve and promote these.
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