Thekkady: When the hills whispered hues of bliss

Some of the best travel stories don’t begin with a destination; they begin with a detour.

En route to Kodaikanal, still trailing the emotional fog of Manjummel Boys, we decided to break the journey with a night’s stay at Hills & Hues in Thekkady.

What we didn’t know was that this spontaneous stop would redefine what a resort experience could feel like.

Where Kerala ends…

The drive up to Hills & Hues is scenic, slightly winding, and, towards the end, a climb.

By the time we reached around 11am, we were welcomed by crisp mountain air and the strange but exciting knowledge that the wall running along the edge of the resort literally marks the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border. You stand there sipping chai and suddenly realise you’re one foot in each state.

 

The reception is clean and simple, with none of the five-star razzle. A few young, polite staff were at the desk when we checked in.

But behind the scenes, we discovered the true backbone of the resort: Ramachandra Prabhu, the Manager. A gentleman in the finest sense of the word, Prabhu seems to know every guest by name and anticipates needs before you voice them.

As one staff member remarked with a smile, “Sir sees everything—he even notices the wind direction at breakfast!” His warm, genuine appreciation of guests adds a deeply personal layer to the experience. You feel less like a customer, more like an old friend returning home.

From suitcase trouble to smoother travels

Earlier reviews had mentioned the steep climb to rooms and the challenge of transporting luggage over stone-paved paths. We ourselves had seen young staff struggling uphill with bags.

But as Prabhu assured us during a quiet moment over tea, two new electric buggies were introduced recently, and that issue is now sorted for good. That was good to hear and, frankly, overdue. The difference it’s made to both staff and guest comfort is evident.

But the moment you enter your room—all other details melt away.

Warm wooden tones. Large bed. The balcony that looks out onto the Cumbum Valley. A bathroom that feels like a spa in itself. You’re wrapped in quiet luxury.

One moment, you’re a traveller, and the next, you’re just… there. Present. Calm. A fellow guest, Krishnaprasad from Ernakulam, had put it aptly in a review: “Every angle is a photo. Every photo is a memory.”We couldn’t agree more.

 

Global stays, local soul

Hills & Hues offers fifteen themed cottages inspired by global architectural styles: Colonial, Moroccan, Tuscan, Spanish, Bourbon, and Scandinavian. Ours had a Moroccan vibe, minimal yet comforting. Even the furniture seemed to belong more to a memory than a showroom.

The guest list, we later learned, is as eclectic as the design. From international dignitaries like the President of Hungary to Malayalam film personalities like Basil Joseph and industry leaders who prefer their privacy, many have sought out this quiet perch in Thekkady for its soulful seclusion.

 

Flavours that follow your texture

Dinner was a delight. Held at their in-house restaurant, The Muse, the food is local but elevated. Our fish was wrapped in banana leaf, the mushroom starter beautifully plated.

But what makes this place stand out is the interactive cooking experience. Not just a standard “watch-the-chef” demo, but a tailored experience based on guest interests as Prabhu explained.

“It’s not just Thekkady fish curry every time,” he said, smiling. “We ask them what they’re used to, what textures they like then we customise.”

That kind of detail orientation is rare. And deeply appreciated.

New to the property is their Ayurvedic spa, run by a dedicated in-house team. While we didn’t have time to indulge, the faint scent of oils and the peaceful layout suggested a space where healing is more than a word.

The infinity pool, meanwhile, continues to be the crown jewel. Whether you float at dawn or dip at dusk, it makes time irrelevant.

 

Quiet goodbye

If there’s a hitch, it’s the price. Rooms start around ₹15,000 even off-season, which may cause some budget travellers to think twice. But as one guest wrote, “The silence, the setting, the soul—it’s all priceless.” And when someone like Ramachandra Prabhu greets you on departure with that same quiet sincerity he showed on arrival; it’s hard not to feel like you’ve left behind something very personal.

Would I return? Absolutely. But this time, maybe for longer. Hills & Hues isn’t just a place to sleep; it’s a place that makes you stop, feel, and maybe even listen to what the hills are trying to say.

 

The writer is Picture Editor, Malayala Manorama. 

Tourism