The Buddhist citadel of J&K: Ambaran's ancient legacy captivates Delhi

It is rare for photo exhibitions to receive extensions—let alone multiple ones—but the ongoing photo exhibition on Ambaran, an excavated Buddhist monastic site near Akhnoor, Jammu, has already been extended twice at the National Museum, and is set for yet another. 

This growing interest reflects how a lesser-known archaeological gem from Jammu & Kashmir is captivating both professionals as well as amateur art and history enthusiasts alike.

Located on the Eastern bank of the Chenab River, about 50km from Jammu, the site has revealed the remains of an ancient Buddhist complex, shedding light on the region’s rich historical and religious past.

The exhibition features the work of Vijay Kranti, a 75-year-old veteran journalist and photographer, who has displayed 60 photographs, including 10 large-format blow-ups, capturing the site's grandeur and intricate archaeological details.

“I became a photographer out of necessity,” says Kranti, recalling how he had to take photos to accompany his freelance stories when he began his career in 1970. Though much of his career was spent in front of a television camera, his deep eye for detail eventually brought him behind the lens, culminating in several photography exhibitions across India and abroad.

Kranti, who has published over a dozen books (including three coffee table editions) is currently the Chairman of the Centre for Himalayan Asia Studies & Engagement (CHASE). His photographic work largely centres on Tibet, Jammu & Kashmir, and Ladakh.

His passion is evident in this exhibition: 12 photographs showcase the remains of Buddhist stupas and viharas. The remaining 48 images document terracotta molds, copper and iron tools, redware pottery, and Kushana-era copper coins: all unearthed at the Ambaran site.

A major highlight is the photograph of a gold casket discovered in the central chamber of a stupa, along with gold and silver foils, pearl beads, and coins, all of which add a layer of spiritual mystery to the exhibit. 

Another striking image captures a circular votive stupa, its base built with well-molded bricks: a remarkable example of ancient craftsmanship.

The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) began excavations at Ambaran in 1999-2000, continuing in phases until 2010. One of their most significant finds was a spoke-wheel stupa: the first of its kind discovered in Jammu & Kashmir. 

With a diameter of 8m and eight spokes radiating in classic Buddhist architectural style, the stupa rests on a 1.2-metre-thick wall made from basket-shaped bricks. One of Kranti’s photographs prominently displays this unique structure.

To capture the full story, Kranti photographed artifacts not only at the Ambaran site, but also at the Akhnoor Site Museum, Jammu Museum, and the National Museum, where other items from the excavation are preserved.

This exhibition is currently on view at the Ajanta Gallery of the National Museum, located on Janpath, near the India Gate, in New Delhi. The museum itself houses over 2,10,000 artifacts spanning 8,000 years of Indian history and craftsmanship.

Following its Delhi showcase, Vijay Kranti plans to take the exhibition to Jammu and Srinagar, bringing the remarkable story of Ambaran back to the region it came from.

Society