The ziggurat of Panjim: An art deco treasure lies neglected in plain sight in Goa’s capital

Panjim abounds with heritage structures that reflect a variety of influences. To the tourist, the Indo-Portuguese structures bearing the imprint of the European colonial power that ruled the territory for four centuries are of greatest interest. But Goa’s capital also has significant structures built in regional and modernist styles.

One of these is located on the city’s main square, across from the iconic Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church to whose steps hundreds of tourists flock every day to take photos. Somewhat improbably, it was inspired by the architecture of Mesopotamia, as ancient Iraq was known.

The Praça do Comércio stands out as one of Goa’s earliest art deco buildings. Designed in the 1930s by engineer Luis Bismarck Dias, it reflects the Art Deco aesthetic at its peak, adhering closely to the principles of the style that caught the world’s imagination during the jazz age.

Praça do Comércio’, or “Commerce Square” in Portuguese, was conceived as a commercial hub lined with a row of shops. Over the decades, many of the original establishments have given way to newer businesses. Some shopfronts are now permanently shuttered.

While most art deco structures in Goa date back to the 1940s and 1950s, the Praça do Comércio is a rare early...

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