Food Talk: Get allured by polenta

We, the people of India, consider our regional and community cuisines as the best in the world. After that comes the Indian rendering of the Chinese, Italian and the Tex-Mex. Nowadays, many worthy and otherwise ‘celebrity’ chefs have taken upon themselves to indigenise Japanese, Korean and the Mediterranean repertoire. The days aren’t far when we will be able to tickle our palates with Brazilian, South African and Moroccan delicacies donning a desi garb. Let the purists keep grumbling, love for familiar flavours conquers all. But, we digress.

We have long wondered why we have not been allured by polenta — something that effortlessly bridges the distance between Latin America, Europe and Turkiye? Scholars tell us that the word is derived from Arabic and translates into fine powdered flour. Indeed, what else is polenta but very finely milled cornflour. Before maize was brought to Europe by the Hispanics and the Portuguese, the word existed and was used to describe finely ground millets, or other coarse grains. It sustained the poor, who cooked it like porridge. When wheat and rice became affordable, maize was forgotten as a staple in Europe. It retains primacy in Peru, Mexico and many other Central and South American countries.

Understandably, people are grateful to the rugged faithful friend who laid the foundations of the great Inca and Aztec civilisations. It’s cornflour that’s used for tortilla, nachos, tacos, enchiladas, etc. In Italy, pasta is staple in the central and southern regions. To the north and in the adjacent geographies of Austria, Germany and Switzerland, polenta has large, dominant footprints. What intrigues is that while we have taken more than a shine for all shapes of pasta and myriad pizza, we haven’t been seduced by polenta.

Polenta has many qualities to recommend it. It has a pleasing mild sweetness and a creamy texture. Also, it absorbs all flavours, sweet and salty, with effortless ease. It has come a long way from the ugly belly-filling gruel. It can be enjoyed as a wispy fluffy delicacy that disappears tantalisingly when the spoon crosses the lips barrier. However, nothing stops you from baking it into a loaf of bread. Even spread and shape it like a pizza to cut slices and share it with loved ones.

You may, if you feel lazy, even create a mouth-watering sweet dish/dessert by topping a slice of polenta with preserved fruit, berries, whipped daily cream, a trace of maple syrup or honey. Call it firangi shahi tukra, if you like.

— The writer is a food historian

Polenta lasagna

Ingredients

Polenta /maize flour 2 cups

Onions (chopped) 2 cups

Bell pepper (chopped) 1 cup

Garlic cloves (minced) 6

Italian seasoning 1 tsp

Marinara sauce (made at home) 2 cups

Masoor dal (soaked for 30 minutes) 2 cups

Kale leaves 2 cups

Apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp

Tomato paste 1 tbsp

Black peppercorns 10-15 (or to taste)

Salt To taste

Baking soda 1/4 tsp

Basil leaves (for garnish) 6-8

Method

Heat a thick-bottomed pan over medium-low flame and put in onions, bell pepper, garlic and Italian seasoning. Cover and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring in between and sprinkling a little water as needed to prevent scorching. Add 1 cup of the marinara sauce (mixture of fresh tomato sauce, tomato paste, coriander leaves, vinegar and oil), the lentils, kale, vinegar, tomato paste and black pepper. Blend well and adjust seasoning.

Bring to boil 8 cups of water in a large pan. Gradually whisk in polenta/maize flour, baking soda, and salt. Reduce heat to low and continue cooking for about 20 minutes until the mixture is thick and creamy. Stir frequently.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Evenly spread one-third of the cooked polenta in a lightly greased ovenproof dish. Spread half of the cooked veg lentils over this. Top this with another layer of one-third of the polenta. Spread the remaining lentil mixture. Repeat till all the polenta and vegetables are used up.

Bake, uncovered, in a preheated oven for 20 minutes. Just before serving, warm the remaining marinara sauce and spread it over the top of the lasagna. Garnish with fresh basil. Makes a great cold light lunch or supper dish in summer.

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