Jaipur in the rain

It’s just after dawn in Jaipur, and the streets glisten with the remnants of an early morning shower. The pink sandstone buildings seem freshly washed, their colours softer but somehow more vivid against the slate-grey sky. Peacocks call from garden walls, and the air is thick with the scent of petrichor.

Known for its blazing summers and desert landscape, Rajasthan’s capital takes on a different charm during the monsoon months. It’s when the crowds thin, the pace slows, and the Pink City reveals its quieter, gentler side.

The monsoon lends a luminous quality to Jaipur’s most famous landmarks. Amber Fort, perched high on a hill, seems shrouded in the mist, its honeyed walls slick with rain. Its vast courtyards and mirrored chambers, usually chock-a-block with visitors, now offer a rare moment of solitude.

At Hawa Mahal, rivulets of rain run down the beautiful honeycomb facade, as they do at City Palace and Jantar Mantar. I venture up to Nahargarh Fort, which I remember visiting as a child, on a cool, drizzly afternoon for panoramic views of the city. The surrounding Aravalli Hills, typically rugged and dry, have been transformed into a lush green wonderland. Jaipur in the rain is a vibe!

One day, when the rain really comes down, I decide to stay put at my quarters, which showcase the city’s royal legacy. The Anantara Jewel Bagh Jaipur Hotel blends Mughal-inspired arches, serene courtyards, and pink sandstone facades with contemporary comforts. The Royal Heritage Art Work tour highlights the intricate artwork that reflects Jaipur’s vibrant heritage and ends with a storytelling session — all without leaving the premises!

The next day, I choose an early morning exploration of Jaipur’s old city. Built in the late 18th century by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the streets are laid out in a grid, rare for its time, and the buildings are washed in the city’s iconic blush-pink hue, a colour said to symbolise hospitality.

The guide points out ornate facades with scalloped archways, jharokhas, and delicate latticework that filters light and breeze. The carved floral motifs, Mughal-inspired domes, and Rajputana chhatris combine to create Jaipur’s distinctive blend of Mughal and Rajput architecture.

The monsoon lends the streets a fresh, almost cinematic, charm — pavements glisten with rain, and the pink facades glow softly in the morning light. Here and there, water trickles down spouts shaped like animal heads, a nod to the city’s whimsical design details.

At the bustling flower market, the scent of wet earth mingles with wafts of fresh flowers. Vendors are already arranging bright marigolds and red roses into neat piles, their colours contrasting against the grey sky.

I wander past the havelis and latticed windows, following the scent of frying dough to Puran Ji Kachori Wale, which has been serving piping hot kachoris since 1963.

The clouds hang heavy, but I’m willing to brave the intermittent rain. Johari Bazaar and Tripolia, normally swarmed with shoppers, are refreshingly quiet, making it easier to explore exquisite jewellery, colourful lac bangles, and vibrant block-printed textiles.

The artisan quarters of Sanganer and Bagru offer a chance to witness the timeless art of hand-block printing. My shopping list includes Jaipur’s distinctive blue pottery, and I visit studios that show how these distinctive turquoise-hued ceramics are made.

Few things feel more satisfying when it’s drizzling than a hot snack, and Jaipur delivers with aplomb. Along with street-side vendors, a range of stylish cafes serve comfort fare. Heritage restaurants such as 1135 AD within Amber Fort and Samode Haveli offer traditional Rajasthani thalis.

I choose to dine at Sheesh Mahal, a jewel box adorned with mirror mosaics and coloured glass that’s inspired by Rajasthan’s iconic palace and crafted over three years with a million mirror pieces.

The next day, Jaipur’s lesser-known charms beckon. The Jal Mahal, floating serenely in the waters of Man Sagar Lake, looks magical. At Panna Meena ka Kund, a historic stepwell, rainwater collects in gorgeous geometric patterns.

As I head back home, I realise that Jaipur in the monsoon is an invite to slow down. The rain transforms Rajasthan’s capital from a dusty desert stronghold into a lush, living canvas.

— The writer is a freelance contributor

Rajasthan