Beyond the plains: A journey into Himachal’s mesmerising Baspa valley
As the northern plains sizzled under the sweltering summer sun, a group of nine travellers sought refuge in the bewitchingly beautiful Baspa Valley—more famously known as Sangla Valley—in Himachal Pradesh’s Kinnaur district.
Tucked away at Rakchham village, our camp lay cradled amidst rolling alpine meadows and the majestic embrace of the Himalayas. Perched along the Baspa River fed by melting snow, the landscape was straight out of a postcard.
To reach this secluded haven, we branched off from National Highway-5 at Karcham and endured a bone-rattling 30-km drive on broken mountain roads—a stretch that took over two hours but delivered a rewarding destination.
As we arrived, the camp staff, led by retired army man Ghatak Havildar Pradhuman Singh Negi of the Jammu and Kashmir Rifles, welcomed us with hot cups of tea. In true ‘fauji’ fashion, Negi outlined the camp routines and offered a gentle acclimatization walk through the surrounding pastures.
On foot through untamed beauty
Two major treks were on offer—one to the picturesque Batseri village, the other a more arduous climb to Chitkul, the last inhabited Indian village near the Indo-Tibet border.
We started with the 10-km Batseri trek, crossing five low mountain ridges, gurgling streams, and sheep-dotted meadows. “Take very slow steps. Enjoy your surroundings and the experience,” advised Negi, setting the tone for a peaceful, immersive journey. Two friendly stray dogs accompanied us throughout, almost like silent guides.
Evenings back at the camp were soulful, with bonfires, guitars, and soft Bollywood tunes sung by Digvijay, an engineering student from our group. The Chitkul Challenge & Meadows Beyond.
The next day brought the daunting trek to Chitkul. Ropes and team coordination were required for the steep, rocky paths. Only three members completed this tough trail, while the rest revisited earlier treks and explored meadows beyond Chitkul—accessible only with permission from the ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police).
The ITBP jawans were notably hospitable, offering directions, safety advice, and even assisting with vehicle parking. One of the highlights was a serene walk along the riverbanks surrounded by hundreds of grazing sheep. After a meal at Zostel Café in Chitkul, a server warned us of impending rain. “See that dark ‘koyal’ with a yellow beak? When she descends from higher ranges, it means cold is on its way.” Moments later, the drizzle began—like clockwork.
A moonlit farewell & cultural detours
On our final night, a post-dinner stroll rewarded us with a magical moment. A faint glimmer in the sky slowly intensified into a brilliant full moon, lighting up the snowy peaks around us in a surreal glow.
En route to Rakchham on day one, we had halted at Sarahan, a quaint town about 162 km from Shimla. Here, we left the highway to visit the famed Bhima Kali Temple, known for its wooden architecture and spiritual legacy tied to the former Bushahr royal family. The temple is also one of the 51 sacred Shakti Peethas.
Sarahan is also home to the Pheasantry, dedicated to the endangered Western Tragopan. Forest Guard Manisha, our guide, impressed us with her deep knowledge of bird species and their calls, making the visit a delight for nature enthusiasts.
A valley that stays with you
From its surreal landscapes to the soulful silence of moonlit nights, the Baspa Valley offered more than just a respite from heat—it provided a deep, rejuvenating experience in nature’s lap.
Whether you’re an avid trekker or a quiet admirer of the hills, Sangla Valley promises the perfect summer escape.
Features