Bringing Vivienne Westwood to India was an inspired choice
The secrecy! The suspense! The anticipation! When word got out that Britain’s iconic brand—helmed by Dame Vivienne Westwood until her passing in 2022—was making its India debut with a show using the Gateway of India as a dramatic backdrop, major flutters ensued in the frothy, flirty, fabulous fashion world. A lot was anticipated from a global brand that’s sought after by connoisseurs of Vivienne’s trademark look (punk meets rock).
After Dior’s spectacular show at the same venue in 2023, Westwood’s Indian debut had a tough act to follow. Invitations were fiercely sought after, and desperate fashionistas were ready to kill for one.
Reportedly, the show was conceptualised and executed in just a month, following a visit to the Vivz Fashion School in Pune by the brand’s CEO Carlo D’Amario. It was there that he brought Vivek Pawar, the school’s founder-promoter, on board, along with ‘Aaranya’ patron Priyadarshini Scindia. The idea was to spotlight the gossamer-fine Chanderi weaves of Madhya Pradesh along with homespun khadi from the Khadi and Village Industries Commission. Great collab, for sure.
While commendable, the show didn’t quite echo Westwood’s original philosophy—rebellious, outre and out-of-the-box. Just like her own well-documented life which caused ripples each time she came up with a breakthrough collection.
Westwood’s avant-garde thinking was evident from the word go. A lifelong vegetarian, pacifist and gardener, she first grabbed headlines with a boutique named ‘Sex’—inspired by her then-husband’s band, ’Sex Pistols’. She said she opted for punk as it provided her a way of seeing “if one could put a spoke in the system’’. Disruptive fashion and bold statements made her a fashion force throughout her long, colourful life, in which she flourished as extravagantly as her wild, untrimmed garden.
She married Andreas Kronthaler, her second husband—a bisexual man 25 years her junior, when she was his professor. Unfortunately, Kronthaler skipped the Mumbai show and it was Carlos who took to the stage to talk about the brand, with Kareena Kapoor, Priyadarshini Scindia and others, listening politely.
Bringing Westwood to India was an inspired choice, given its niche client base. Though most fashionistas today only associate Vivienne with the bridal gown chosen by Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City, which had sparked off a huge buzz. Subsequently, Vivienne had graciously presented the gorgeous gown to Sarah Jessica Parker with a charming note. Known for her flamboyance, Vivienne used her position in the fashion firmament to articulate her concerns—civil rights, climate change and nuclear disarmament.
Her brand today seems to be playing it safe by opting for fashion that isn’t edgy enough to woo new fans. Tartan tweeds and flower hats have nostalgic value only for die-hard devotees of the look she pioneered. Perhaps, that is why the debut in India did not quite electrify the scene the way Dior did. Frankly, I was happy watching the show as a mixed bag of models walked around glumly to a tepid response.
I recalled my brief encounter with the redhead years ago at the Place Vendome in Paris. There she was, holding court on a muggy summer evening, as international paparazzi hung on to her every word. We got to speak briefly and she seemed enchanted by all things Indian. Well, for a woman who believed every fashion outing was a battlefield, perhaps the debut is two decades too late? Playing it safe was never an option for the vivacious Vivienne.
However, India is ready! We appreciate fashion risks. Let’s take Chanderi, khadi and more to the world—and break a few fashion moulds with silhouettes that stun. Leave the predictable party frocks to the faint-hearted. Go for shock and awe, Viv. If any label can do it, it is you.
X@DeShobhaa Instagram@shobhaade
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