This new Delhi food pop-up takes you on an eastern Himalayan trail

For many in India, the Himalayas generally evoke images of Kashmir, Manali, Shimla, Mussoorie, and the like. But when it came to Himalayan food, it is the eastern Himalayas that increasingly gained traction. Momos and thukpa were considered passé, as more hyperlocal dishes has begun to capture attention.

 

"Currently in India, the food of the north-east is becoming increasingly popular, especially in Delhi with popular places like Majnu-ka-tila and Humayunpur. But we who live in West Bengal know so little about the cuisine of the hills -- Darjeeling and Kalimpong -- part of the eastern Himalaya," says Kolkata-based chef Katherine Lim. So when Lim and Kalimpong-based chef Ishita Rai Dewan, who runs two restaurants there named Cloud 9 and Cafe Kalimpong, came together during a chef's retreat, they knew they had to introduce the food to more people.  

 

And this culminated in 'The Mountain Table', an East Himalayan-themed food pop-up at Pullman, New Delhi Aerocity, which is underway till June 29.

 

Given its geography, "Kalimpong is the confluence of Nepalese, Bhutanese, Tibetan, and even Chinese people," says chef Lim, and this sets the tone for what's coming ahead.

 

The menu is not extensive but straightforward and balanced, not making it difficult to choose what to order. 

 

There is no momo or thukpa on the menu, instead, you can start with a light bowl of soup, such as the Tibetan Fing soup, which is a Tibetan-style glass noodle soup that has mushrooms and tofu.

 

I skip that and go right for the starter -- the Kalimpong Mountain Mezze platter, which comes with an interesting set of dishes, such as chives pakora, Kalimpong style aloo dum, Sadako wai-wai, and Kalimpong cheese bamboo shoot dale achar, and two kinds of dips. This sets the tone for what's ahead - an exquisite variety of dishes and balanced flavours.

 

For the main course, I play safe and order the classic Ema Datshi, a comfort Bhutanese dish of cheese and chilli stew served with bread. While this has mild flavours, the mountain spiced mutton, which has Sichuan pepper, black cardamom, and cumin, is spicy yet not heavy on the palette.

 

The dessert menu is plain and simple, and I go for the Mango Sago pudding. "We don't have very many desserts in our cuisines. It's generally fruits," says chef Lim. And this simple mango-lychee ice cream dish makes for the perfect end to the meal.

Lifestyle